Nevados, valles y lagunas
Sin duda, uno de los lugares más hermosos del país. Las dificultades para llegar hasta esta cordillera (50 kilómetros al sudeste de la Cordillera Blanca), han contribuido a mantener su belleza natural, que cuenta con nevados, lagunas, valles y cascadas. La mayor montaña de Huayhuash —y la segunda del Perú— es el Yerupajá (6,639 msnm), punto más alto de la Cuenca Amazónica.
Hoy en día la Cordillera sufre de amenazas por parte de la explotación minera y el turismo irresponsable. Afines del 2002 la zona fue declarada Área Natural Protegida, pero subsisten problemas tanto por la mayor accesibilidad —debido a los caminos hechos para la explotación minera— como con los habitantes, que temen por sus derechos al pastoreo y verse excluidos de los beneficios del turismo. Varias comunidades han establecido un mecanismo de cuotas que sumadas llegan a 150 soles por persona para la vuelta completa y 90 soles para la travesía Llamac-Cajatambo, lo que garantiza seguridad y el uso de pastos y áreas de camping.
Desde Conococha (km 488 de la Ruta 3N), en dirección este, parte una pista asfaltada que atraviesa la Pampa de Lampas y desciende como una ruta afirmada al pueblo de Chiquián (31 km); su mayor atractivo son las impresionantes vistas de la Cordillera Huayhuash, que domina el horizonte. Desde Chiquián existe una carretera afirmada a los pueblos de Pacllón, Llamac y Pocpa, puntos de partida para el trekking en la cordillera. Es necesario contar con un guía que conozca bien la zona. De Chiquián parte una carretera a los pueblos de Huasta y Aquia. (Por esta ruta también se puede utilizar un tramo de la carretera construida por Antamina; vea más arriba.) Esta ruta ofrece dos alternativas, ambas difíciles, sobre pistas afirmadas:
1. Volver al Callejón de Huaylas (mano izquierda-oeste) por la punta de Yanashalla, bordeando el nevado Pastoruri y los bosques de puyas Raimondi.
2. Tomar dirección este hacia Huallanca (con espectaculares vistas), vía que eventualmente conduce a La Unión, cerca (10 km de trocha) al poco visitado sitio arqueológico de Huánuco Pampa (o Huánuco Viejo), la más importante ciudad incaica del norte del país, y Huánuco. Huánuco Pampa tiene restos bien preservados en los que se observa los tres estilos de ar¬quitectura Inca (Pirca, Almohadillado e Imperial), además de un conjunto de baños del inca. En Huallanca y La Unión hay servicios adecuados para pasar la noche. No es recomendable recorrer esta vía en horas de la noche, se han reportado asaltos.
Si no desea tomar alguna de las dos opciones descritas, es posible seguir por la carretera hacia el norte (Antamina). Es una bella ruta de valles y lagunas que conduce hasta San Marcos, en el Callejón de Conchucos.
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HOSPEDAJES EN CHIQUIÁN: Los Nogales, Comercio 1301, (043) 44-7121, US$ 14. Casona solariega con amplios jardines y cochera. Desayunos, agua caliente, baños privados. Reservas Lima: 460-8037. http://www.andestop-peru.com/ e-mail: hotel_nogales_chiquian@yahoo.com Gran Hotel Huayhuash, 28 de Julio 400, (043) 44-7049, US$ 20, http://www.hotelhuayhuash.com/ Moderno, con habitaciones pequeñas. Agua caliente, cochera.
RESTAURANTES EN CHIQUIÁN: El Fogón, a media cuadra del mercado. Panadería Santa Rosa (cafetería), Plaza de Armas.
AGENCIAS DE TURISMO EN CHIQUIÁN: Andes Top Perú, Comercio 1301, (043) 44-7202. http://www.andestop-peru.com/
HOSPEDAJES EN LA UNIÓN: Gran Hostal Abilia Alvarado, 2 de Mayo, US$ 7. Casona con jardín y cochera. Algunas habitaciones tienen baño propio.
RESTAURANTES EN LA UNIÓN: Chifa Khon Wa, 2 de Mayo 611. Buena comida. Cierran temprano.
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Parque Nacional Huascarán
Introducción
Casi toda la Cordillera Blanca está comprendida dentro del Parque Nacional Huascarán (340 mil hectáreas), parte del Sistema Nacional de Áreas Naturales Protegidas. Creado en 1975 para proteger una zona de excepcional riqueza paisajística y biológica, el Parque fue declarado Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la Unesco en 1985. El PNH cuenta con 663 glaciares, más de 200 nevados, 296 lagunas y 44 ríos importantes. Es un paraíso para científicos (posee muchos microclimas que favorecen la proliferación de centenares de especies de flora y fauna), andinistas y caminantes; sin embargo, también ofrece numerosas excursiones que se pueden hacer en auto en un solo día y que no requieren de un estado físico excepcional ni equipo de campamento. Pastoruri y Llanganuco son los destinos habituales del Parque, pero ciertamente no los únicos. Para el viajero en busca de una experiencia diferente hay otros itinerarios, menos transitados y de igual o mayor interés.
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Recomendaciones: El Parque tiene un Reglamento de Uso destinado a conservar el área en su estado natural. Está dividido en zonas de acuerdo a las actividades permitidas: Zonas Silvestres, se permite deporte de aventura sin infraestructura permanente ni uso de vehículos motorizados; Zonas Recreativas, con servicios permanentes y uso de vehículos motorizados; Zonas en Recuperación y Zonas de Protección Estricta, en las que no se permite el acceso de turistas. En todas está prohibido botar basura, arrancar flores o cortezas, hacer fuego abierto, portar armas de fuego y orinar en los ríos. Es prudente salir muy temprano, pues el clima suele ser mejor en las mañanas y se encuentra menos gente.
Ingreso al Parque Nacional Huascarán
Actualmente el PNH tiene dos Puestos de Control: Llanganuco y Carpa (glaciar Pastoruri). En temporada alta (Semana Santa, Fiestas Patrias, etc.) se producen colas y demoras. Los Puestos ofrecen orientación al turista. Entrada: S/. 5.00 por persona; S/. 2.50 para estudiantes con carné. Hay otra tarifa, llamada "turismo de aventura"; cuesta S/. 65 y autoriza al usuario a acampar dentro del parque durante un mes.
Caminos: En temporada de lluvias los caminos dentro del Parque (afirmados) se hacen aún más difíciles. En ningún caso son recomendables para pilotos inexpertos o propensos al soroche.
Servicios y camping: Actualmente el PNH tiene 4 servicios higiénicos: uno en cada Puesto de Control, y los otros en Chinancocha y al pie del Pastoruri. En las zonas de mayor afluencia hay letreros que señalan los lugares para acampar.
Lagunas de Llanganuco (Chinancocha y Orconcocha: 3,850 m)
A 26 km de Yungay por carretera afirmada. Se ha vuelto obligatoria la excursión a las lagunas de Llanganuco, entre los nevados Huascarán y Huandoy. Las paredes verticales de la quebrada son tan impresionantes como las aguas color turquesa. En Chinancocha, hasta donde llega la mayor parte de los turistas, hay paseos en bote y algunos servicios. Sin embargo, pasando las lagunas comienzan los paisajes más bellos. A 20 minutos, rumbo al portachuelo o abra, el paisaje se abre y uno se encuentra rodeado de nevados, sobre todo la impresionante pared sur del Chacraraju (6,112 msnm). Hay muchas aves y, ocasionalmente, vicuñas y tarucas. Se puede subir en auto hasta el Portachuelo Llanganuco (4,750 msnm), en las faldas del nevado Chopicalqui, donde el panorama es aun más amplio. Desde este punto se desciende al pueblo de Yanama y al Callejón de Conchucos.
El extremo este de las lagunas se conoce como Yurac Corral. Se trata de una amplia explanada, en la orilla este de la segunda laguna, llamada Orkoncocha, donde se puede observar numerosas especies de aves silvestres en su hábitat natural, como el ganso andino, numerosas variedades de patos, la gaviota andina, el puna ibis, el caracara, entre otras. Hay un camino de mediana dificultad para ir a pie, que asciende a través de la quebrada Demanda hasta el pie del nevado Chacraraju y termina frente a una catarata impresionante (6 km ida y vuelta). Los más aventu¬reros pueden caminar 7.5 km de fuerte ascenso (750 m más) hasta alcanzar la impresionante Laguna 69, al pie del mismo nevado Chacraraju, Este itinerario (ida y vuelta) toma 5 a 6 horas y se encuentra bien señalizado.
Glaciar Pastoruri (4,800 a 5,200 m) y la puya Raimondi
45 km por la carretera asfaltada Huaraz-Pativilca; otros 25 km por la pista afirmada a Huallanca y Huanzalá. El ingreso (S/. 5.00 por persona) se paga en el Puesto de la Comunidad de Catac; el parque tiene otro puesto a pocos metros, pero sólo de control de tránsito y estadístico. Al pie del glaciar hay servicios, comida y alquiler de caballos. Desde el estacionamiento hasta la nieve, la caminata toma 45 minutos. Aunque la zona ha sido muy depredada y el hielo sigue retrocediendo, la experiencia de caminar sobre un glaciar o practicar el esquí vale la pena. Entre Carpa y Pastoruri la ruta pasa por los campos de puyas Raimondi. Otros puntos de interés son el maravilloso ojo de agua de Pumapashimi, un puquio de agua gasificada y vestigios de arte rupestre de 2,000 años de antigüedad.
Pastoruri es muy alto y requiere aclimatación. Camine lentamente para evitar el soroche. Es importante respetar los reglamentos y seguir las indicaciones de los guardaparques. Se ha prohibido la costumbre de meter bolsas de plástico dentro de las botas para no mojarse los pies, pues las personas dejaban abandonadas las bolsas al bajar. Si desea esquiar, la Casa de Guías (Huaraz) alquila equipo y ofrece los servicios de un instructor. La pista de esquí tiene 400 metros y es apta para principiantes. No hay ningún mecanismo para llevar esquiadores a la zona alta; es necesario subir a pie. Durante la Semana de Andinismo hay un campeonato de esquí, así como demostraciones de técnicas de rescate de montaña. A consecuencia del cambio climático, este nevado se ha visto seriamente afectado, de modo que su acceso es restringido. Consulte antes de decidir visitarlo.
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Otras salidas
Laguna Parón (4,200 m). A 32 km por la sinuosa pista Caraz-Parón (2h en auto). Por seguridad y para abastecimiento de la Central del Cañón del Pato, la compañía de electricidad controla el nivel de la famosa laguna color turquesa. El paisaje, dominado por la clásica Pirámide de Gar- cilaso (5,885 m), ya no tiene la belleza de antes pero sigue siendo espectacular. Las paredes de granito, las cascadas y el bosque primario de quenual en el cañón o quebrada de Parón son quizás las más imponentes de la Cordillera.
Quebrada Ulta (4,000 m). Hermoso y poco visitado por turistas, este cañón —situado directa¬mente bajo el flanco sur del Huascarán y Chopicalqui— rivaliza en belleza con Llanganuco. La ruta no está bien mantenida; se inicia en Carhuaz, pasa por los pueblos de Shilla y Llipta (12 km) y sube hasta el final de la quebrada Ulta (22 km). Una corta caminata (500 m, dirección norte) por un valle secundario conduce a un impresionante conjunto de cascadas en medio de un bosque de queñuales. La pista avanza en zigzag y cruza la Cordillera en el paso de Punta Olímpica (4,900 m), hacia los pueblos de Pompey y Chacas en el Callejón de Conchucos.
Quebrada Llaca (4,000 m). Albergue de la Escuela de Guías, a 26 km por la ruta afirmada Huaraz-Laguna Llaca, al pie de los nevados Ranrapalca y Ocshapalca que dominan el horizonte al este de Huaraz. La ruta, pedregosa y empinada, pasa por las ruinas de Wilcahuaín (km 6) y el desvío a la quebrada Cojup y Pitee (km 15). Siguiendo un sendero corto pero resbaloso se puede visitar el glaciar del Ranrapalca. Hay una nueva ruta de acceso, afirmada y bien señalizada, que parte directamente al este del puente Quilcay y se une con las descritas líneas arriba.
Laguna Churup - Quebrada Quilcayhuanca. A 20 km por la ruta Huaraz-Pitec arranca un sendero muy empinado de 3 km que sube 700 m hasta los 4,550 m de la laguna Churup (ojo: se necesita estar bien aclimatado). Siguiendo la misma ruta afirmada otros 3 km se ingresa a la Quebrada Quilcayhuanca (3,800 m), donde se puede hacer caminatas fáciles de una hora o de hasta un día completo, disfrutar uno de los paisajes más hermosos de la Cordillera y ver pinturas rupestres, chullpas preincaicas y cóndores.
Laguna Querococha. Km 16 de la carretera Catac-Chavín, No es necesario ir hasta las ruinas de Chavín para visitar esta laguna de aguas color esmeralda. Hermoso paisaje con senderos que bordean las orillas de la laguna y siguen a la quebrada Yanamarey.
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Cordillera Huayhuash
Glaciers, valleys and lakes
Without doubt one of the most beautiful places in the country. The difficulty in reaching this range (50 miles southeast of the Cordillera Blanca), have helped to maintain its natural beauty, with glaciers, lakes, valleys and waterfalls. Most Huayhuash mountain, and the second of Peru, is the Yerupajá (6.639 m), highest point of the Amazon Basin.
Today's Range with threats by the mining and irresponsible tourism. Allied 2002, the area was declared a Protected Natural Area, but serious problems remain both in the more accessible, because the roads made for mining, as the inhabitants, who fear for their rights to grazing and being excluded from the benefits of tourism . Several communities have established a quota mechanism which together come to 150 dollars per person for full rotation and 90 soles for hiking Llamac-Cajatambo, ensuring safety and use of pastures and camping areas.
From Conococha (km 488 of Route 3N), heading east, partly paved road that crosses the Pampa of Lampas and descends like a unpaved road to the village of Chiquián (31 km), its main attractions are the stunning views of the Cordillera Huayhuash, which dominates the skyline. Since there is a dirt road Chiquián the people of Pacllón, Llamac and Pocpa, starting points for trekking in the mountains. It is necessary to have a guide who knows the area well. Chiquián part of a road to the villages of Huasta and Aquia. (This route can also be used a stretch of highway built by Antamina, see above.) This walk offers two alternatives, both hard on tracks affirmed:
1. Back to the Callejon de Huaylas (left hand-west) by the end of Yanashalla, along the snowy forests Pastoruri and Puya Raimondi.
2. Take eastbound Huallanca (with spectacular views), the way that eventually leads to La Union, about (10 km of trail) to the little visited archaeological site of Huanuco Pampa (or Huanuco Viejo), the most important Inca city in the north, and Huanuco. Huanuco Pampa has well-preserved remains observed in the three styles of ar ¬ chitecture Inca (Drywall, padding and Imperial), and a set of baths of the Inca. In Huallanca and La Union are adequate for the night. It is not recommended to climb them at night, have reported assaults.
If you do not want to take any of the two options, you can follow the road north (Antamina). It is a beautiful valleys and lakes path that leads to San Marcos, in Conchucos.
LODGINGS IN CHIQUIAN: Los Nogales, Trade 1301, (043) 44-7121, U.S. $ 14. Manor house with gardens and garage. Breakfast, hot water, private bathrooms. Lima reservations: 460-8037. http://www.andestop-peru.com/ e-mail: hotel_nogales_chiquian@yahoo.com Gran Hotel Huayhuash, July 28 400, (043) 44-7049, $ 20, http://www.hotelhuayhuash.com / Modern, with small rooms. Hot water, garage.
CHIQUIAN RESTAURANTS: The Hearth, a half block from the market. Santa Rosa Bakery (cafeteria), Plaza de Armas.
TRAVEL AGENCIES CHIQUIAN: Top Peru Andes, Trade 1301, (043) 44-7202. http://www.andestop-peru.com/
ACCOMMODATIONS IN THE UNION: Great Hostel Abilia Alvarado, May 2, $ 7. House with garden and garage. Some rooms have private bathroom.
RESTAURANTS IN THE UNION: Chifa Khon Wa, May 2 611. Good food. Close early.
Huascaran National Park
Introduction
Almost all the Cordillera Blanca is outside the Huascaran National Park (340 hectares), part of the National System of Protected Natural Areas. Created in 1975 to protect an area of outstanding landscape and biological richness, the park was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. The NHP has 663 glaciers, more than 200 glaciers, 296 lakes and 44 major rivers. It is a paradise for scientists (has many microclimates that favor the proliferation of hundreds of species of flora and fauna), climbers and hikers, but also offers many excursions can be made by car in one day and do not require a exceptional physical condition or camping equipment. Pastoruri and Llanganuco are the usual destinations of the park, but certainly not the only ones. For the traveler looking for a different experience there are other routes, less traveled and less interest.
Recommendations: The park has a regulation designed to conserve use the area in its natural state. Is divided into zones according to the permitted activities: Wilderness, adventure sport is permitted without permanent infrastructure or use of motor vehicles, recreational areas, with ongoing services and motor vehicle use; Areas Recovery and Strict Protection Areas in which do not allow tourist access. Is prohibited in all litter, pick flowers or bark, to open fire, firearms and urinate in rivers. It is prudent to leave very early because the weather is usually better in the mornings and is less crowded.
Huascaran National Park Entrance
NHP currently has two checkpoints: Llanganuco Tent (Pastoruri glacier). In high season (Easter, Independence Day, etc..) Queues and delays occur. The posts provide guidance to tourists. Admission: S /. 5.00 per person; S /. 2.50 for students with ID. There is another fee, called "adventure travel" costs S /. 65 and entitles you to camp within the park for a month.
Roads: In the rainy season the roads within the park (affirmed) become even more difficult. In no case are recommended for inexperienced riders or prone to sickness.
And camping services: Currently the HNP has 4 toilets, one at each Checkpoint, and others at the foot of Chinancocha Pastoruri. In the busiest areas there are signs that mark the campsites.
Llanganuco gaps (Chinancocha and Orconcocha: 3.850 m)
A 26 km of paved highway Yungay. It has become obligatory trip to Llanganuco gaps between the mountains Huascaran and Huandoy. The vertical walls of the gorge are as impressive as the turquoise waters. In Chinancocha, as far as the majority of tourists, there is boating and some services. However, gaps begin passing the most beautiful landscapes. At 20 minutes, heading or open Portachuelo, the landscape opens and you find yourself surrounded by glaciers, especially the impressive south face of Chacraraju (6.112 m). There are many birds and, occasionally, vicuna and tarucas. You can go by car to the Portachuelo Llanganuco (4.750 m), in the foothills of Mount Chopicalqui, where the picture is even broader. From this point down to the people of Yamana and Conchucos.
The eastern end of the lakes is known as Yurac Corral. This is a wide plateau at the eastern edge of the second lagoon, called Orkoncocha, where you can see numerous species of wild birds in their natural habitat, such as the Andean goose, several kinds of ducks, Andean gulls, the puna ibis , Caracas, among others. There is a middle path difficulty walking, ascending through the valley to the foot of Demand Chacraraju snow and ends in front of a stunning waterfall (6 km round trip). Most adventures ¬ NWFPs can walk 7.5 km of steep ascent (750 m) up to the impressive Lake 69, at the foot of the snow Chacraraju, this route (round trip) takes 5 to 6 hours and is well signposted.
Pastoruri glacier (4.800 to 5.200 m) and Puya Raimondi
45 km along the paved road-Pativilca Huaraz, another 25 km along the track to Huallanca Huanzalá affirmed. Revenue (S /. 5.00 per person) payable at the Post Catac Community, the park has another post a few meters, but only traffic control and statistical. At the foot of the glacier there service, food and rent horses. From the parking lot to the snow, the walk takes 45 minutes. Although the area has been pillaged and ice is receding, the experience of walking on a glacier or go skiing worthwhile. Among Pastoruri Tent and the route passes through fields of Puya Raimondi. Other highlights are the wonderful eye Pumapashimi water, a carbonated water puquio rock art relics 2,000 years old.
Pastoruri is very high and requires acclimatization. Walk slowly to avoid altitude sickness. It is important to respect the rules and follow directions of park rangers. It has banned the custom of putting plastic bags inside your boots to avoid getting wet feet, as people abandoned the bags to let down. If you want to ski, the House of Guides (Huaraz) rents equipment and offers the services of an instructor. The ski slope is 400 meters and is suitable for beginners. There is no mechanism to carry skiers to the upper, is necessary to go on foot. Climbing During the week there is a ski championship, as well as demonstrations of mountain rescue. As a result of climate change, this mountain has been seriously affected, so that access is restricted. Check before you decide to visit.
Other outputs
Laguna Paron (4,200 m). A 32 km along the winding track Caraz-Paron (2h by car). For safety and supply of Central Canyon del Pato, the power company controls the level of the famous turquoise lagoon. The landscape, dominated by the classic pyramid Garcilaso (5.885 m) no longer has the beauty of it before but still spectacular. The granite walls, waterfalls and quenual primary forest in the canyon or ravine Parón are perhaps the most impressive of the Cordillera.
Quebrada Ulta (4.000 m). Beautiful and rarely visited by tourists, this barrel-direct ¬ located directly under the southern flank of Huascaran and Chopicalqui-Llanganuco rivals in beauty. The route is not well maintained, starts in Carhuaz, passes through the towns of Shilla and Llipta (12 km) and rises until the end of the gorge Ulta (22 km). A short walk (500 m, north) for a side valley leads to an impressive set of waterfalls in the middle of a forest of queñuales. The track moves in zigzags and crosses the Cordillera at the Punta Olimpica pass (4,900 m), to the towns of Pompeii and Chaco Conchucos.
Quebrada Llaca (4.000 m). Hostel Guide School, 26 km on the unpaved road-Laguna Llaca Huaraz, at the foot of the snowy Ocshapalca Ranrapalca and dominating the skyline to the east of Huaraz. The path, stony and steep, passing by the ruins of Wilcahuain (km 6) and the stream diversion and Pitea Cojup (km 15). Following a short but slippery path can visit the glacier Ranrapalca. There is a new path, and well signposted affirmed that part directly east of the bridge and joins Quilcay described above.
Churup - Quebrada Quilcayhuanca. A 20 km along the Huaraz-Pitec starts a very steep path that rises 3 km 700 m to 4.550 m from the lagoon Churup (note: you need to be well acclimatized). Following the same unpaved road another 3 km you enter the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca (3,800 m), where you can easily hike up to an hour or a full day, enjoy one of the most beautiful scenery in the mountains and see ancient rock paintings, chullpas preincaicas and condors.
Laguna Querococha. Km 16 road Catac-Chavin, No need to go to the ruins of Chavin to visit the emerald lagoon. Beautiful scenery with trails that line the shores of the lake and follow the creek Yanamarey.
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Cordillera Huayhuash
Glaciers, valleys and lakes
Without doubt one of the most beautiful places in the country. The difficulty in reaching this range (50 miles southeast of the Cordillera Blanca), have helped to maintain its natural beauty, with glaciers, lakes, valleys and waterfalls. Most Huayhuash mountain, and the second of Peru, is the Yerupajá (6.639 m), highest point of the Amazon Basin.
Today's Range with threats by the mining and irresponsible tourism. Allied 2002, the area was declared a Protected Natural Area, but serious problems remain both in the more accessible, because the roads made for mining, as the inhabitants, who fear for their rights to grazing and being excluded from the benefits of tourism . Several communities have established a quota mechanism which together come to 150 dollars per person for full rotation and 90 soles for hiking Llamac-Cajatambo, ensuring safety and use of pastures and camping areas.
From Conococha (km 488 of Route 3N), heading east, partly paved road that crosses the Pampa of Lampas and descends like a unpaved road to the village of Chiquián (31 km), its main attractions are the stunning views of the Cordillera Huayhuash, which dominates the skyline. Since there is a dirt road Chiquián the people of Pacllón, Llamac and Pocpa, starting points for trekking in the mountains. It is necessary to have a guide who knows the area well. Chiquián part of a road to the villages of Huasta and Aquia. (This route can also be used a stretch of highway built by Antamina, see above.) This walk offers two alternatives, both hard on tracks affirmed:
1. Back to the Callejon de Huaylas (left hand-west) by the end of Yanashalla, along the snowy forests Pastoruri and Puya Raimondi.
2. Take eastbound Huallanca (with spectacular views), the way that eventually leads to La Union, about (10 km of trail) to the little visited archaeological site of Huanuco Pampa (or Huanuco Viejo), the most important Inca city in the north, and Huanuco. Huanuco Pampa has well-preserved remains observed in the three styles of ar ¬ chitecture Inca (Drywall, padding and Imperial), and a set of baths of the Inca. In Huallanca and La Union are adequate for the night. It is not recommended to climb them at night, have reported assaults.
If you do not want to take any of the two options, you can follow the road north (Antamina). It is a beautiful valleys and lakes path that leads to San Marcos, in Conchucos.
LODGINGS IN CHIQUIAN: Los Nogales, Trade 1301, (043) 44-7121, U.S. $ 14. Manor house with gardens and garage. Breakfast, hot water, private bathrooms. Lima reservations: 460-8037. http://www.andestop-peru.com/ e-mail: hotel_nogales_chiquian@yahoo.com Gran Hotel Huayhuash, July 28 400, (043) 44-7049, $ 20, http://www.hotelhuayhuash.com / Modern, with small rooms. Hot water, garage.
CHIQUIAN RESTAURANTS: The Hearth, a half block from the market. Santa Rosa Bakery (cafeteria), Plaza de Armas.
TRAVEL AGENCIES CHIQUIAN: Top Peru Andes, Trade 1301, (043) 44-7202. http://www.andestop-peru.com/
ACCOMMODATIONS IN THE UNION: Great Hostel Abilia Alvarado, May 2, $ 7. House with garden and garage. Some rooms have private bathroom.
RESTAURANTS IN THE UNION: Chifa Khon Wa, May 2 611. Good food. Close early.
Huascaran National Park
Introduction
Almost all the Cordillera Blanca is outside the Huascaran National Park (340 hectares), part of the National System of Protected Natural Areas. Created in 1975 to protect an area of outstanding landscape and biological richness, the park was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985. The NHP has 663 glaciers, more than 200 glaciers, 296 lakes and 44 major rivers. It is a paradise for scientists (has many microclimates that favor the proliferation of hundreds of species of flora and fauna), climbers and hikers, but also offers many excursions can be made by car in one day and do not require a exceptional physical condition or camping equipment. Pastoruri and Llanganuco are the usual destinations of the park, but certainly not the only ones. For the traveler looking for a different experience there are other routes, less traveled and less interest.
Recommendations: The park has a regulation designed to conserve use the area in its natural state. Is divided into zones according to the permitted activities: Wilderness, adventure sport is permitted without permanent infrastructure or use of motor vehicles, recreational areas, with ongoing services and motor vehicle use; Areas Recovery and Strict Protection Areas in which do not allow tourist access. Is prohibited in all litter, pick flowers or bark, to open fire, firearms and urinate in rivers. It is prudent to leave very early because the weather is usually better in the mornings and is less crowded.
Huascaran National Park Entrance
NHP currently has two checkpoints: Llanganuco Tent (Pastoruri glacier). In high season (Easter, Independence Day, etc..) Queues and delays occur. The posts provide guidance to tourists. Admission: S /. 5.00 per person; S /. 2.50 for students with ID. There is another fee, called "adventure travel" costs S /. 65 and entitles you to camp within the park for a month.
Roads: In the rainy season the roads within the park (affirmed) become even more difficult. In no case are recommended for inexperienced riders or prone to sickness.
And camping services: Currently the HNP has 4 toilets, one at each Checkpoint, and others at the foot of Chinancocha Pastoruri. In the busiest areas there are signs that mark the campsites.
Llanganuco gaps (Chinancocha and Orconcocha: 3.850 m)
A 26 km of paved highway Yungay. It has become obligatory trip to Llanganuco gaps between the mountains Huascaran and Huandoy. The vertical walls of the gorge are as impressive as the turquoise waters. In Chinancocha, as far as the majority of tourists, there is boating and some services. However, gaps begin passing the most beautiful landscapes. At 20 minutes, heading or open Portachuelo, the landscape opens and you find yourself surrounded by glaciers, especially the impressive south face of Chacraraju (6.112 m). There are many birds and, occasionally, vicuna and tarucas. You can go by car to the Portachuelo Llanganuco (4.750 m), in the foothills of Mount Chopicalqui, where the picture is even broader. From this point down to the people of Yamana and Conchucos.
The eastern end of the lakes is known as Yurac Corral. This is a wide plateau at the eastern edge of the second lagoon, called Orkoncocha, where you can see numerous species of wild birds in their natural habitat, such as the Andean goose, several kinds of ducks, Andean gulls, the puna ibis , Caracas, among others. There is a middle path difficulty walking, ascending through the valley to the foot of Demand Chacraraju snow and ends in front of a stunning waterfall (6 km round trip). Most adventures ¬ NWFPs can walk 7.5 km of steep ascent (750 m) up to the impressive Lake 69, at the foot of the snow Chacraraju, this route (round trip) takes 5 to 6 hours and is well signposted.
Pastoruri glacier (4.800 to 5.200 m) and Puya Raimondi
45 km along the paved road-Pativilca Huaraz, another 25 km along the track to Huallanca Huanzalá affirmed. Revenue (S /. 5.00 per person) payable at the Post Catac Community, the park has another post a few meters, but only traffic control and statistical. At the foot of the glacier there service, food and rent horses. From the parking lot to the snow, the walk takes 45 minutes. Although the area has been pillaged and ice is receding, the experience of walking on a glacier or go skiing worthwhile. Among Pastoruri Tent and the route passes through fields of Puya Raimondi. Other highlights are the wonderful eye Pumapashimi water, a carbonated water puquio rock art relics 2,000 years old.
Pastoruri is very high and requires acclimatization. Walk slowly to avoid altitude sickness. It is important to respect the rules and follow directions of park rangers. It has banned the custom of putting plastic bags inside your boots to avoid getting wet feet, as people abandoned the bags to let down. If you want to ski, the House of Guides (Huaraz) rents equipment and offers the services of an instructor. The ski slope is 400 meters and is suitable for beginners. There is no mechanism to carry skiers to the upper, is necessary to go on foot. Climbing During the week there is a ski championship, as well as demonstrations of mountain rescue. As a result of climate change, this mountain has been seriously affected, so that access is restricted. Check before you decide to visit.
Other outputs
Laguna Paron (4,200 m). A 32 km along the winding track Caraz-Paron (2h by car). For safety and supply of Central Canyon del Pato, the power company controls the level of the famous turquoise lagoon. The landscape, dominated by the classic pyramid Garcilaso (5.885 m) no longer has the beauty of it before but still spectacular. The granite walls, waterfalls and quenual primary forest in the canyon or ravine Parón are perhaps the most impressive of the Cordillera.
Quebrada Ulta (4.000 m). Beautiful and rarely visited by tourists, this barrel-direct ¬ located directly under the southern flank of Huascaran and Chopicalqui-Llanganuco rivals in beauty. The route is not well maintained, starts in Carhuaz, passes through the towns of Shilla and Llipta (12 km) and rises until the end of the gorge Ulta (22 km). A short walk (500 m, north) for a side valley leads to an impressive set of waterfalls in the middle of a forest of queñuales. The track moves in zigzags and crosses the Cordillera at the Punta Olimpica pass (4,900 m), to the towns of Pompeii and Chaco Conchucos.
Quebrada Llaca (4.000 m). Hostel Guide School, 26 km on the unpaved road-Laguna Llaca Huaraz, at the foot of the snowy Ocshapalca Ranrapalca and dominating the skyline to the east of Huaraz. The path, stony and steep, passing by the ruins of Wilcahuain (km 6) and the stream diversion and Pitea Cojup (km 15). Following a short but slippery path can visit the glacier Ranrapalca. There is a new path, and well signposted affirmed that part directly east of the bridge and joins Quilcay described above.
Churup - Quebrada Quilcayhuanca. A 20 km along the Huaraz-Pitec starts a very steep path that rises 3 km 700 m to 4.550 m from the lagoon Churup (note: you need to be well acclimatized). Following the same unpaved road another 3 km you enter the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca (3,800 m), where you can easily hike up to an hour or a full day, enjoy one of the most beautiful scenery in the mountains and see ancient rock paintings, chullpas preincaicas and condors.
Laguna Querococha. Km 16 road Catac-Chavin, No need to go to the ruins of Chavin to visit the emerald lagoon. Beautiful scenery with trails that line the shores of the lake and follow the creek Yanamarey.
